Web3D Project by Eyes, JAPAN

HOW TO CREATE A PLASTER MASK

For our Facial-Motion-Capuring-Project we decided to create a plaster mask. This should be helpful for relocating the markers’s exactly positions on the performer’s face. Here you’ll find a description of the creating process and a summary. To conclude our previous work we have to mention, that both techniques did not give the result, we expected. We don’t hesitate to find the best method…

Participants:

Akira	Mamoru	Ryou	Kathrin

Methods:

1. Plaster bandages		2. Plaster powder

1. Method: Using plaster bandages

Schedule:

Preparation: 15 min.
Bandage Application: 20 – 30 min.
Touchup: 15 min.
Drying: 24 hours
Casting: 1 – 2 hours
De-molding: ???

What you need:

First, you need a work-area where you can make a mess in (please don’t do it in the office).
Then be sure to have following items:

Plaster bandages (0.3m² per face)	Moulding Powder (Plaster of Paris)	Vaseline (petroleum jelly)	Nylon stocking	plastic food wrap
Hair conditioner	Towels	Scissors	Container of Water	Newspapers

How you do it:

1) Preparation

		Wet the castee’s hair before it gets wrapping up.
		Stretch the stocking over the head so it’s just above the eye brows and covering the ears. Using tights (pantyhose) is better than stockings, because they do not fit too strong. Using plastic bags underlying the thingts will eliminate any bonding of plaster to the hair through the stocking.
		Have the castee wash off all makeup. Apply vaseline to entire face area paying attention to eyebrows and facial hair,
		it’s a good idea to place small pieces of plastic wrap over the eyes to cover the lashes and any other area containing hair.
		Cut the plaster bandages into small, medium and big triangular pieces. Cutting a variety of sizes can be helpful. Keep the strips out of range of spilling or dripping water, as wet tape will harden before you apply it to the face, making it useless.

2) Bandage Application

		Take a piece of dry bandage, dip it into the warm water, just long enough to get them wet (2 – 3 sec), and begin applying them to the face. Notice the difference between the sides of the tape. One side has more plaster on it. Apply the tape with this side out, and rub the tape until all extra plaster is spread around, covering the cotton cloth of the tape and all the holes .
		Start with 2 strips placed diagonally across the face from cheek across nose to forehead as shown. Use big triangles on broad planes, small ones in the more detailed areas. Make sure each strip overlaps with previous strip and smooth into close contact with face with your fingers. Cover mouth area and up along the sides of your head and create a nice even 1st layer over the entire face, but leaving holes around the nostrils! WARNING: DO NOT stick straws up your nose or in your mouth!!! This is extremely dangerous, there is no need for this method, simply leave an opening to breathe from your nose and or mouth depending if your a mouth or nose breather. Alternate the directions of the layers between the layers to help improve the strength of the mask.
		Continue this process till you have 3-4 layers over the whole face, not including the overlapping of the bandages in a single layer. Make sure not to cover more than half the head so the castee can remove themselves from the bandages when you are done! And make also sure to go far enough under the chin, to the point where it joins the neck.

3) Drying & Removal

		After 10 to 15 minutes, the mask can be removed. When the model feels the mask begin to dry, they can make the removal process easier by wiggling their face. Scrunching up cheeks, frowning, smiling, scowling, lifting eyebrows–any facial movement will help to release the mask.

The next steps (4 – 6) we did not try yet, because the mold we got was not usable
for casting. But here you’ll get the information, how to do:

4) Touchup

Remove plastic. Hold the bandage mold up to the light and look through from
the inside for thin spots. Apply some more bandages on the outside of those
spots to reinforce. Seal up the breathing holes with more plaster bandage. Use
some loosely wadded newspaper to support the mask while it dries. Set aside
for 24 hours to dry.

5) Casting

When the mold has dried, (ideally overnight in a warm, dry place), brush a thin
even layer of Vaseline all over the inside, being careful not to miss spots
around the nose, and along the edges. Place the mold nose down into something
that will support it level, and keep the nose from being damaged. A bucket full
of crumpled up newspaper can work well. Mix up a batch of casting plaster and
carefully pour it into the mold, just over 3/4 full. As it gets more solid,
scoop the plaster out from the center and up the sides of the mold, so the inside
is not completely solid, and you get all of the sides cast. Try not to let it
spill over the edges too much.

6) De-molding and finishing

When the plaster has cooled, carefully start pealing the edges of the plaster
bandages away from it. They should start to disintegrate, revealing the plaster
face underneath. Clean off the plaster head, sand off any rough bits while still
soft, then allow to dry fully in a warm dry environment. Congratulations, you
have made a face casting! Now pass that art smock over to the castee, it’s your
turn to get your face cast!

Resume:
The
1st experiment included using plaster bandages. The duration of the mask making
process was about 2 hours (including preparation, bandage application, drying
and removal). The advantage of using this methode was the strongness of the
mask. After 15 Minutes we could remove the mask from the face without any bursting.
The disadvantage of the used bandages was their roughness; too many gaps that
were not closed. So the experiment failed regarding a smooth facial structure.

2. Method: Using plaster powder

Schedule:

Preparation:
30 min.
Plaster Application: 2 min.
Touchup: 15 min.
Drying: 24 hours

1) What you need and how to prepare is rather the same, like mentioned above.

2) Application

		Take the plaster in cold water, paying attention the instructions.
		You have to be careful covering the face. The plaster has to be fluid, while putting on the face, but not too fluid, otherwise it doesn’t fit in the face. Also pay attention for the nostrils. Fluid plaster can run into them.

3) Drying & Removal

After 20 minutes we removed the mask. Unfortunately the mask broke while doing this.

Resume:

The 2nd experiment included using plaster powder. The
duration was the same as mentioned above. But there were no advantages that
could be mentioned. First, the plaster hardened too fast, so there was no time
for smoothing it onto the face (although we started with fluid plaster). The
effect was, that there were no viewable facial structures. Further the mask
broke while removed from the face. This happened, because the plaster is indeed
hard but wet. It needs very long time for drying (at least 24 hours).

Next Steps:

We will try the plaster mathod again, paying attention to the correct ratio (water :
powder). A further step could be, using both: bandages for the strongness and
powder for the smoothness. We will inform you about our results.

Hints:

		Notepad and pencil for the castee – to communicate information if necessary

Links:

http://www.goblinart.com/about/Face_casting.html
http://www.sportmask.com/masksizing.html
http://www.allspecies.org/edu/maskmaking.htm#tapeanchor
http://www.rondalarue.com/PAGES/MASK%20PAGES/how.html

Kathrin Krimling
updated:
06.10.2005